Ask the Car Guy: The Oil Change Myth
Q:
Is it ok to go past my mileage on an oil change?
A:
Ah, that age old ticking time bomb known as “the miles past your oil change”. You look at the sticker on the inside of your windshield and literally count the miles you have put on BEYOND the recommended change interval, wondering when implosion, explosion or some type of major detonation will occur.
The good news is that for the most part, going beyond within reason, isn’t the “death knell” for your engine.
Motor oil by design, lubricates moving parts in most all internal combustion engines and helps minimize the friction between these internal parts (which causes wear). Motor oil creates a slippery "film" that prevents direct contact with these parts and helps prevent abnormal friction, higher heat and increased wear, as the engine is operated.
Now, the rubbing of the parts together, even aided by the film the oil provides, still produces wear and even microscopic metal fragments that are picked up by the oil filter and oil pan. Plus, the heat and hard work of the internal parts causes the oil to become dirty and “thicker” since the additives break down over hard usage and time, thus reducing the oil's effectiveness at keeping things “slippery.”
Here is where it gets good: Fragments in the oil pan, potential sludge, heighten operating temperatures in the engine, lower RPMs, increased fuel consumption and of course, cause potential engine failure.
These are all BAD things that can come from ignoring that sticker and postponing your oil change.
The type of miles you have driven since your last oil change - distance driven, type of trips taken, number of cold starts, etc. - still remains the BEST indicator of when oil should be changed.
Luckily, today’s advanced vehicles have the technology to take all these things into account and then some, in order to trigger the “idiot light” on your dash and remind you that it's “time." But for some of us, the oil change sticker from the dealer, “quick lube” or reputable local shop are still reliable reminders.
Try not to go thousands of miles past the interval and most “experts” say that you will be ok. But I don’t recommend bending the rule, because in the end… a complete engine repair or replacement expense is far more more costly than a simple oil change.
Don’t you agree?
Editor's Note: Blain Boudreau is a 20 year veteran of the auto industry with a vast array of "car guy" knowledge. Have an auto question for Blain? Email Andy.Ambrosius@patch.com.
Craig
11:25 pm on Thursday, February 9, 2012
What are the advantages of synthetic oil?
I have an Impala with 100,000 miles that has only had Mobil 1- doesn't burn or leak a drop.
I have a Pontiac G6 with 48,000 miles and it burns a quart every 3,000 miles and a small leak. This too has only used Mobil 1. (5W30)
I change oil every 8-10,000 miles. Am I wasting money or doing something wrong?
James R Hoffa
12:10 am on Friday, February 10, 2012
@Craig -
As I understand the differences, full synthetics are composed of molecules that are perfectly shaped and equally sized, thus allowing for greater lubricity, while natural oil contains molecules of irregular shapes and differing sizes, which while providing marginally lower lubricity qualities also makes leaks due to worn rings, seals, or gaskets less likely to occur. Natural oil will also contain more 'contaminants,' while synthetic oils contain none. Some synthetics, such as Mobil1, are also less prone to viscosity break down than regular untreated natural oil.
Personally, I prefer the blended formulations myself, as it gives the best of both worlds. You can either buy the pre-blended stuff or blend yourself - just make sure it's all of the same rating.
BTW - For the engines your vehicles have, I'd personally recommend running a 10W30 rated oil for maximum problem free longevity, although the greater weight is really only needed during cold start-up and prolonged heat-up periods such as during the colder winter months. I know that a 5W and 10W only act differently up until running temperature, at which point they both act the same, and that usually you want the oil to be 'thin' during start up, but with today's starters and computer controlled fuel injection, I'd rather have the added protection of the weight over the ease of starting in cold weather, which really isn't a problem on modern engines.
VietNam Vet
2:31 am on Tuesday, October 23, 2012
Craig, If you have a car with over 100,000 miles on it, I would use a 10W-40 if you want to ue a synthetic I would go with that. We recommend that for a car with high mileage. I am a dealer for Amsoil 100% Sythetic oil, no in between and I don't recommend mixing your own blend because the synthetic blended oils ar blended with a blending additive. I use a 10W-40 in my wifes car and a 5W-30 oil in my car, the 5-30 is a 10,000 mile oil and the 10-40 is a 15,000 mile oil and our oil filters are among the best on th market. Most oil filters are rate about 40-80% efficient, but our flters are rated at 98.7% efficient. The oil isn't cheap but you will see an increase in fuel mileage and better performance and less wear and tare on your engine. This is fact not speculation.
Craig
10:31 pm on Friday, February 10, 2012
Thanks Hoffa! In my tractor I run 0W30 because it can get hard to turn over in the cold.
I tried high mileage Mobil 1 with a quart of synthetic Lucal oil additive and it stopped the leak almost immediately. I thought I remember reading that changing to natural oil would stop leaks, but I was told doing the opposite works also. (if you use natural oil and switch to synthetic)
For now I am sticking with what is working. Thanks for the info.
Craig
11:04 pm on Friday, February 24, 2012
UPDATE: My 20 HP Kohler with 150 hours is now junk!
I guess it didn't matter what oil I used in it, the block has a design flaw, and cracked. Cast aluminum is not very strong, coupled with bolts that sheer off and come lose. I think it was made in China. Replacement cost (Parts only): $900, and no promise it won't happen again.
Bob Laird
8:54 am on Friday, March 1, 2013
Craig, I've worked on Kohler engines in the past. One common problem was that if someone engaged the starter while the engine was running it would break the block every time. Don't know if this is what happened to you, but it does happen.
Craig
9:26 am on Friday, March 1, 2013
Bob: After fours years of owning it, and 155 hours on the meter I was upset to say the least. I did some digging and found a factory rep to discuss the issue. Mainly I was looking to gripe about it. I told him I can see Briggs from my house. They mailed me a short block at no charge. The plant had a batch with improper torque on the cover plates of the block- this caused a weakness.
The local sales and repair shop wanted me to buy the same motor from them. Glad I made an effort to contact Kohler, and will likely buy their products going forward.
Tom Kamenick
7:01 am on Saturday, February 11, 2012
The sticker on the inside of your car is NOT what you should be using to determine when you need an oil change. For most newer cars, the old 3,000 mile mark is no longer correct - the oil changers are just trying to drum up more business.
Check your car's manual for what the manufacturer recommends. Typically, you'll find a number in the 6,000 - 8,000 mile range. You can also go by the dashboard light, too.
VietNam Vet
2:35 am on Tuesday, October 23, 2012
Tom, if you switch to a good synthetic oil you can extend your drain intervals out way beyond that range, I can get you a great oil that you can extend to 1 year or 25,000 miles. I have done it my car with no problems. I use Amsoil synthetic oils, the First in Synthetics.
Nikki
1:41 pm on Monday, January 7, 2013
Tom. This statement is not necessarily correct. The manufacturer will admit that climate should also be considered as a guide tool to getting the oil changed. We are located in a "severe" climate coded by automobile guidelines and in most cases, depending on the driving done also, the automobile manufacturer will advise to change the oil more frequently. There "tests" and determinations do not take severe climate states into consideration.
$$andSense
7:53 am on Saturday, February 11, 2012
Lots of good points here. A couple I would like to add. Today's oils are not your grandfathers or even the type your father used. They are far better due to quality control in the refining business. Secondly, the materials used for bearings and the like in today's motors are far superior to those in the 70's and before. Used to be if you could get 100k out of a vehicle's motor without a rebuild, you were doing great. We all probably know someone who has 300k or 400k on a vehicle's motor that keeps chugging along. Leaking seals eventually catch up that contribute to oil loss. For my wife's vehicle and my own which are every day use, I do spring, summer, falll and winter changes. Works out just fine. One has 190k the other 250k. At $22 at the local garage for oil and filter change, I can't go wrong.
SteveG
7:48 am on Monday, July 16, 2012
$22.00 oil & filter change? What century was that in?
My oil/filter change sets me back $90+ .
As a youngster I changed my own until I reached 50 years old. Maybe my cost was $22, but now, at 71...$90 is the going rate here in CT.
mau
2:54 pm on Saturday, February 11, 2012
Mystic, the finest in engine lubrication.
Carrie
7:20 am on Saturday, August 11, 2012
Your paying the cost of oil and the fliter possabily a new plug =22 $ labor is the rest!
$$andSense
5:03 pm on Saturday, February 11, 2012
Not sure what electronic fuel injection (efi), throttle body injection (tbi) or whatever fuel delivery system would have to do with oil choice. Supercharged or turbocharged (forced induction), yes, as the oil gets run through the bearings of these devices. But efi or tbi, not sure where that is coming from. Best bet is to use what the manufacturer recommended out of the box. Diesels are another matter, as Shell Rotella (SAE "C" rating) has been designed for diesels not only for vehicles, but also for heavy equipment diesels. .The manufacturer of the oil is rather irrelevant unless you have stock in the company. Check the label. SN is the latest SAE rating of gasoline motor rated oils compatible with most motors going back. CJ-4 is the latest SAE rating for high speed diesels as you would find in a German manufactured vehicle. 5w30 hs been the most commoly recommeded oil for vehicles operated in the lower 48 states under normal conditions, unless you have a much newer vehicle that specifically requires synthetic oil. To clear the air on synthetics, they are not necessarily "synthetic", many are made from raw petroleum like your regular off the shelf stuff. If in doubt, contact your mechanic.
James R Hoffa
6:05 pm on Saturday, February 11, 2012
@$$andSense -
The type of fuel delivery system in a gas engine matters only upon start-up in cold ambient conditions. Usually efi's are easy to start irregardless of temperature, while mechanical or tbi systems are a little more temperamental because the mechanical parts can freeze-up, and carbs are usually the most difficult to start in cold weather because of mechanical freeze up and the way in which they combine the air-fuel mixture before it is introduced into the combustion chamber.
Unless you really need the lower weight to assist in starting your vehicle in cold weather conditions, I personally prefer and recommend a 10W over a 5W, as it can often take 15-20 minutes for the engine to reach full regular operating temperature and I prefer to have the additional protection/weight of the 10W during those critical minutes, as it would promote longevity and durability of the internal components of the engine.
And yes, the term 'synthetic' can refer to the level of refinement the raw crude has underwent, and is usually graded on the amount of sulfur content (contaminants) that is refined out of the end product.
Racer X
8:01 am on Sunday, September 23, 2012
Lots of good stuff here but I strongly believe the manufacturer of the oil is relevant. Even with SAE ratings that are the same, it is important to go with a brand you trust. If you have a choice between, say, Valvoline and Walmart brand, go with the Valvoline, unless your car is just a heap that you are nursing along, then anything goes.
VietNam Vet
2:41 am on Tuesday, October 23, 2012
$$$, if you use a good synthetic oil you can extend your drains well pas what they recommend today. I use Amsoil synthetic oils and they ARE 100% synthetic, they are The First in Synthetics.
Craig
6:20 pm on Saturday, February 11, 2012
The main reason I started with synthetic Mobil 1 oil was so I could get through the colder than a witches _ _ _ months without needing to change oil. My Impala has been the best running car I ever owned, I like to think the oil had something to do with it.
I also was under the false impression that a 0W30 oil was a good choice for the colder months, I never thought about Hoffa's logical explaination...
Don Sherman
1:18 pm on Saturday, September 29, 2012
The flaw in Hoffa's logical explanation is that the clearances between moving parts may be designed for the "flowability" of a 5W.
Substituting a 10W for a 5W MAY cause spikes in the initial oil pressure at cold start shearing oil pump drives or belts. The oil may also flow more slowly through the clearances taking longer to reach the ends of galleries or chains of moving parts, causing extra wear on those parts farthest from the pump.
I understand the "more is better" engine-oil theory, but it is most often wrong. High-mileage cars with increased clearances caused by wear may tolerate "heavier" oils, like the one step from 5W to 10W, but the average owner will never know whether the clearances are sufficient to make the "heavier" oil the best oil for the application.
If you experience no knocking on cold start, and the oil pressure light goes out or the gauge moves to the "normal" range, stick with the oil specified by the engine manufacturer.
An aside: Tom Kamenick suggested you "[...] can also go by the dashboard light [...]". Not a good idea. If the light is on, or the gauge indicates low, the oil pressure is too low to protect your engine. DO NOT run the engine. (It is possible some very new cars have an engine-oil condition indicator; check your manual to determine whether your light serves that function also.)
VietNam Vet
2:50 am on Tuesday, October 23, 2012
Craig, there are many cars coming out today that recommend using a 0W-20 oil, I personally wouldn't use something like that, but to each his own. Most customers with older cars antique and classic cars ue ou Z-Rod oils for the flat tappet engines, they need the Zinc that many oils today don't have. I have a customer who has a 69 Chevelle and a 67 Chevy Nova both with large engines and he only uses the Amsoil Z-rod synthetic oils and has for years and won't use anything else.
Craig
6:25 pm on Saturday, February 11, 2012
Hoffa you might find this one funny. My dad bought a 71 Plymouth slant 6 new...he ran straight weight Pennsoil 10W. That was not the recomended oil weight even back then.
We sold it when it had 160,000 miles and it still ran like new.
James R Hoffa
6:48 pm on Saturday, February 11, 2012
If it's changed frequently enough and the engine never overheated, then yeah, I could see this happening even though a straight SAE 10 weight is pretty thin! Another thing those slant-6's had going for them was the durable cast iron block and head that aren't as susceptible to warping because of heat as aluminum is. I believe they also used forged rods if I'm not mistaken. Not very light, fuel efficient, or powerful, but built to take a beating and last! Thus the reason for calling it "Detroit iron!"
Really, if you can get away with it, it would be best for longevity and durability to just run a straight weight non-winterized oil all the time, like a SAE 30 grade, or whatever grade is recommended by the manufacturer for regular operation temperature. The only reason to consider using a winterized oil is mostly for start-up considerations in cold weather, and with most modern cars, that's not really much of an issue anymore.
Craig
6:58 pm on Saturday, February 11, 2012
That 71 had two teenage boys beat the hell out of it too!
The kids today think their rice grinders are powerful, if they only knew what we had for horse power back then.
I wish the new cars had an electronic oil pump that would pressurize the system just before start up. I always thought that was the biggest issue with wear.
Ed Sorrels
3:47 pm on Saturday, June 30, 2012
Good Idea, if your wheels are equipt with a turbo, Which because of rotational speeds of the turbine and our really stupid habit of gunning the engine when starting it is the weak point in the dry start up scenerio there is a kit that will supply oil to the turbo on startup, It is used by many trucks which are now all equipt with turbos
Racer X
8:06 am on Sunday, September 23, 2012
There are also kits available that pressurize your oil system before start up using residual pressure kept in a small tank from the last time the engine was run. They use this system in off-shore power boats a lot and it is available for cars. One of my customers had one on an old MGB and it worked great.
$$andSense
8:30 pm on Saturday, February 11, 2012
If you own a new vehicle or one under warranty, use what the owner's manual says to use to not void it. After the warranty is gone, throw whatever you want into the motor. The rest is just personal preference. If it works stay with it. Simple as that.
Stay away from the know it all internet arm chair mechanics that never turned a wrench. The guy or gal that you trust with working on your vehicle is your best bet.
Cast iron blocks, heads and intake manifolds (not just Mopar's slant six but all Detroit's Big 3 iron), were the norm from the Henry Ford's Model T to the 1970's when the use of aluminum was being ushered in. The Chevy Vega was a classic use of an aluminum engine.
$$andSense
8:43 pm on Saturday, February 11, 2012
Forged connecting rods, crankshafts and cam shafts have also been the norm for a long time too (followed by precise machining). Pistons are usually cast and machined aluminum. Engine blocks and heads, whether iron or aluminum, are cast and machined. This goes for motors in cars, trucks, heavy diesels,tractors, marine motors, etc. etc.
TomPF
3:25 pm on Monday, April 30, 2012
While I agree with Hoffa's discussion points for the most part, I want to correct what I perceive as a pretty glaring error. The weight of the oil alone does NOT necessarily mean that it will stay on the moving parts better. The property of film adhesion to metal parts (film strength) cannot be judged by how thick or thin the oil is. IE: Thicker does NOT necessarily equal "better". Only with a break-down analysis of the wear on parts after running the engine for many miles could one oil be judged "better" than another for that property.
I've read a lot of articles and analysis reports over the years and they always have surprises in them. Sometimes big name products perform very poorlly while other relatively lesser known products shine. Amsoil and Mobil 1 synthetics have consistently scored very highly in every report I've seen.
Elaine Hart
9:18 am on Thursday, May 3, 2012
So I have a question. I have a 33 yr old car. I use 20-50 weight oil in it. Is this a good weight to use? It has the original engine 225 2 bbl.
John O'C
10:06 am on Wednesday, May 16, 2012
Oil technology has been changing and mostly for the better but those of us with older cars are at risk because of it. All the new oils no longer have zinc in them to protect the catalytic converters in modern cars. Zinc was used to protect flat tappet lifters and high friction areas of the engine. I'd suggest either using a synthetic or a additive like ZDDP and not worry as much about the weight. The weight 20-50 or 15-40 should be fine. Watch out for the fuel lines since the ethanol attacks the old rubber lines as well and that's a different issue. Life with an older car!
Chris Rueli
10:53 am on Thursday, May 3, 2012
Excellent blog -- very informative and interesting (from an automotive enthusiast standpoint)!
Blain, could elaborate on cold starts, and why that may require more oil? Also, why are we supposed to keep the revs low when the engine is cold? I get it, 'It's not warmed up yet.' But why exactly does that matter?
Captain Obvious
3:01 pm on Thursday, May 10, 2012
Your oil change schedule does not have to be a mileage number, techinically it should be by the hours of operation or type of usage.
TomPF
6:12 pm on Thursday, May 10, 2012
Elaine: You "could" use the 20w/50, but the general rule of thumb is to use the thinnest oil your manufacturer recommends until you're consuming a quart or more between regularly scheduled oil changes. Heavier oil before you realy need ot will induce wear between moving parts, so stay thinner (lower numbers) until you really need it. You'll get better mileage and less wear.
For Chris: Most wear in an engine occurs during startup because the oil film has settled off of the metal parts and they are unprotected from wear. Once the oil gets up to temperature and pressure, the parts are thoroughly lubed and protected and there's very little wear. If you could keep those parts protected with a thin film of oil, you'd virtually eliminate engine wear. Synthetics have better film strengths, hence they protect the moving parts better on cold starts.
For big rig trucks, there are pre-oil systems that can be installed that immediately squort warm oil on key bearings to eliminate such wear, but they are too costly for passenger vehicles.
Kevin Creeden
12:58 pm on Tuesday, May 15, 2012
Good article and dialogue. Responsible mechanics and engineers know that under normal conditions, today's oils last 5K to 7K miles. In most cases, oil filters need to be replaced every other oil change! oilguy.com is the place for lube junkies!
Roy N Lunchbox
8:48 am on Tuesday, May 22, 2012
4 qts of 20W50 and 1 quart of Lucas....the Lakewood NJ oil change special.
Anna Bucciarelli
3:00 pm on Wednesday, May 23, 2012
My goodness... I have so much to learn. I don't even understand what most of the terms you are using mean! I am a recent widow and along with taking over all other responsibilities, I knew the car would be one of my biggest ... I just take it into the dealer about every 6 months ... I only drive it to do groceries and other errands around town, it is a year and a half old and has 4,000 miles ... how am I doing?????
Lou Irigoyen
4:39 pm on Friday, July 13, 2012
There is no real secret to keeping your car running for years. Every car sold, comes with an owners manual. In that owners manual, are not only the instructions on how to set the clock, but a complete maintenance schedule with intervals. I for one have never bought in to the 3000 mile oil change as I believe that the company that built the engine, probably knows best. I go by what they say although I have developed my own schedule of changing the oil every 5000 miles. And if you want to avoid breakdowns, pay attention when something is starting to fail. If you have a leaking radiator hose, the time to regret this is not when you are boiling over somewhere out on I-15 on your way to Las Vegas. Fix the problems when they are small and you wont suffer the misery of highway breakdowns. A car is a machine in many ways. Any machine will eventually fail if not given the proper attention to preventive maintenance.
Kevin Kiehner
1:30 pm on Monday, July 16, 2012
Has anyone driven a Volkswagon clean diesel? 42 miles to the gallon...best car I ever had. Kevin Kiehner
Waterford Rez
7:06 am on Wednesday, July 18, 2012
A few things.
What you are doing makes a big difference. A woman owned GMC 1500 where a grocery run is the biggest demand that truck will see vs. a GMC 1500 towing a 4000 Grady White during the summer months have very different needs wrt oil and how freq. it is changed.
If you want your turbo to last, change it often, especially when it is summer.
SteveG: $90 oil changes? Seriously? You are getting ripped off. There are dozens of places you can get it for under $30. I always go online, print out the latest Goodyear coupon and get it for about $25 or so. My advice it stay away from the "lowballers". Many have untrained techs and just will flat out rip you off. My Goodyear down the road has had the same manager and tech for years. They know me by name, it's about as safe as yo can get (doing it yourself is the best, but I just don't feel like doing it anymore...)
Anyone but Obama
2:16 pm on Monday, August 6, 2012
$90 for an oil and filter change??? Good grief!! In New Hampshire you can routinely get them just about anywhere for under $25 w/o a coupon. $90 isn't just a ripoff - it's downright highway robbery.
Carrie
8:08 am on Saturday, August 11, 2012
How much do you think an oil filter oil and a plug cost? Probably around 20 something $! Add the labor charge which does not all go to the mechanic but to the company aswell ! Might I add that at 90 thats a deal! The poor man working on your car probably has a wife and a couple of kids a student loan and tool loans aswell ! Sadly the mechanic probably only gets 10 $ an hr outta that whole job! Dont blame our mechanic its the companies they work for that take most of the money!
Lisa
7:29 am on Friday, May 3, 2013
I live in Wisconsin and there are always coupons for $19.99 oil changes various places. My hubby works for a car dealership and gets this price all the time along with the convenience of them doing his car while he is at work so no time wasted waiting for the car during off hours.
Lisa
7:34 am on Friday, May 3, 2013
@ Carrie: My hubby does work for a car dealership, not working on repairing cars, more like washing them in t he wash area (like where you'd take your car to be washed), and other odd jobs involving cars, transporting customers etc and you are right on The $10 an hour thing, this is after a few raises and working there for 11 years though so he started out at $8 or so an hour. And with $1,100 a month health insurance he really doesn't bring home much at all! Do the math yup we are broke. He works full time for less than part time pay with the insurance so high and yes this insurance is through his work with his work paying a bunch.
Carrie
7:15 am on Saturday, August 11, 2012
Assuming you have bought you tool and education and have worked most of your life in this field I was wondering How you felt about wages that a mechanic recieves for his work! I am coming from a diffeent view point then most of your readers because my husband happens to be a mechanic! he is currently making oonly 10 $ an hour and currently the company is telling him he will be dropped down to 8.25 an hr! He is not a burger flipper he went to school for this ! I dont really think people know what hard work it is for a person to get up close and personal with your car! Its not like they wave a wand and ta da your car is fixed ! If you could comment I would be greatful!
kadi
10:21 pm on Saturday, May 4, 2013
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Scott Rex
8:48 am on Thursday, September 6, 2012
I commute to San Diego 3 times a week and I change my oil every 3,000 miles. 232,000 miles and still running strong. I've never had an oil related breakdown and put 200,000 + miles on all of my cars. The only exception is our Dodge 3500 Diesel I cange every 5,000 Miles
Lloyd Progroup
4:14 pm on Thursday, September 20, 2012
It is funny and you are 100% right!
Why do we try to postpone the inevitable when it comes to SIMPLE car maintenance?
Changing your oil is CHEAP insurance to help protect you car -- COMPARED to the option of having a blown engine.
Lloyd Pro Group | Nationwide Insurance
2980 Cobb Parkway Southeast #172, Atlanta, GA 30339
(404) 892-2864 (404) 892-2572 (Fax)
http://wwww.lloydprogroup.com
http://atlantainsurance.com/atlanta-auto-insurance.html
Harry Obnrian
7:51 am on Sunday, October 21, 2012
I send a sample of my oil out for analysis that checks viscosity, engine wear metals and contamination. By doing this I attain extremely long oil change intervals, when using synthetics I can get 15 to 20k per oil change which more than pays for the $25 analysis.
Dave Doherty
9:15 am on Saturday, November 3, 2012
Maybe thats the way to go. I was always doing every 4,000 miles - If I use all synthetics I could up it to 8k to 10k and pay the same - or even save a little
Lucas Valdano
1:12 pm on Wednesday, November 7, 2012
It doesn't bother me changing my oil frequently. I use a <a href=www.qwikvalve.com>fumoto oil drain valve</a> to ease my oil changes.
Mike Paquette
5:36 pm on Thursday, December 13, 2012
Wow, all that from "oil change". Good exchange
Joe Theragman
1:16 pm on Tuesday, January 22, 2013
Almost twenty five years ago I bought my first FRANTZ Oil filter from my ole Friend KERMIT, who lives in IB. I installed it on three of my vehicles over the years and always got good service from the motors it was installed on.
It works on a Sub Micron filtering concept using a toilette paper roll inside the Filter Canister.
I change the Toilette paper roll once a month and add one quart of new oil to the Motor. You can buy the pre made rolls at any Frantz Oil Filter distributor or online. However you can just buy a case of Commercial Toilette paper that is "TWO PLY" and "500 sheets per roll".
The new complete Filter units are a bit "Pricey", however I feel they are worth the price, when you consider the level of protection to your motor.
I have even seen the filters installed to The Transmission, and the Fuel lines.
One unit I had installed to my Isuzu I mark Diesel car both on the Motor Oil system and also to the Diesel Fuel system.
that was when the Fuel Prices were high in the US and I would go to Mexico to buy Diesel fuel there as it was cheaper. I also had two extra ten gallon saddle tanks mounted in the trunk. So I would get thirty gallons of Diesel Fuel at a time.
I never had a problem with my Diesel Injectors although many others I know said the Diesel fuel had significant sediment in it. I never had a problem as I had my Frantz Filter on the Fuel as well.
So, there were many great ideas in the above comments. Do anything that works, just do SOMETHING!
Racer X
7:20 am on Sunday, May 5, 2013
If you hate your car, cheap out on maintenance. This includes using toilet paper for an oil filter. I hate to see what you wipe your butt with.
Philipp
10:24 pm on Monday, February 11, 2013
If you really want to know all about motor oil performance, check out the forums at http://www.bobistheoilguy.com - thousands of posts about people sending in their oil to the lab for analysis to measure performance.
Luke
6:52 am on Tuesday, February 19, 2013
The manual for my wife's new car says to change the oil every 10,000 miles.
The manual for my electric car does not recommend any oil changes. ;)
Racer X
7:17 am on Sunday, May 5, 2013
Where does your manual tell you to dump the waste batteries when you need to replace them?
Rita C
7:46 am on Monday, February 25, 2013
I have a 2002 Altima, 2.5. I drive locally and only put on 3-4000 miles annually. I've been having my mechanic change the oil, etc. just once a year, at the annual inspection time. Car runs great. Do you see this as a problem??
Racer X
7:15 am on Sunday, May 5, 2013
Rita C- You are doing the right thing and taking much better care of your car than most people, good job.
Voltaire
12:59 pm on Tuesday, March 12, 2013
I would be very careful about stretching out oil changes. Manufacture's specify the interval for oil changes for a reason. Hey, they designed and built the engine. There are a number of oil sludge class action lawsuits out there but if you can't prove that you changed your oil as the manufacturer specified then you lose. It's cheap insurance for a long lasting engine.